With all the clothing options and accessories available to us in modern times, getting ready in the morning is a bit of a chore. But how did it get like this?
Why do people wear clothes in the first place? And when did we even start wearing them?
These days women and girls commonly wear earrings and necklaces, but why?
And what about men? Did they wear accessories in ancient times too?
Let’s take a look at the fashion of the people of the ancient world to find out!
Palaeolithic Period
What kind of clothes did they wear?
When was it that humans started wearing clothes? We’re not really sure what kind of clothes people wore during the Palaeolithic Period. However, during the Stone Age there was a very cold period known as the Ice Age. In order to withstand the cold, it is likely they would hunt animals like deer for their hide or pelts which they could use to easily make clothes. We still haven’t found any clothing like this, but by looking at the marks on small stone scrapers called sōki, we can see how these tools were used to process pelts and hides.
What about accessories?
In modern times, people wear necklaces and earrings to look stylish, but how did this start? Don’t you think it’s a little strange? We believe that originally those accessories would be used as charms to ward off evil spirits, to become powerful, or to show oneself as having a higher social status.
The oldest accessories made by humans were found in an archaeological site in South Africa that dates back roughly 75,000 years. They are small shell beads with a hole just under 1cm in size. On the Japanese islands, we find necklaces in places like Hokkaido’s Pirika Ruins and Iwate Prefecture’s Togeyama Ranch 1 Ruins.
The oldest accessories made by humans were found in an archaeological site in South Africa that dates back roughly 75,000 years. They are small shell beads with a hole just under 1cm in size. On the Japanese islands, we find necklaces in places like Hokkaido’s Pirika Ruins and Iwate Prefecture’s Togeyama Ranch 1 Ruins.
Pirika ruins/Hokkaido
Photo credit: Tadahiro Ogawa
Provided by: Imakane Town Board of Education
Jomon Period (14,000 – 300 BCE)
What kind of clothes did they wear?
We’re not really sure what people wore during the Jomon period. When you look at the clay figurines from this period, they have coats and short trousers, but we don’t know whether this was everyday clothing, clothing for a special occasion or if they just wanted the figures to have a decorative pattern. So far, the oldest archaeological find in Japan is considered to be sewing needles made from deer antlers 10,000 years ago that were excavated from the Tochihara rock shade ruins of Nagano Prefecture. The sewing needles are roughly 3 – 5cm long and 2mm wide.
The variation in the length of the sewing needles shows they may have been used for different things. Making the cloth was hard enough, but it must have been a really tough task to make these needles!
The variation in the length of the sewing needles shows they may have been used for different things. Making the cloth was hard enough, but it must have been a really tough task to make these needles!
Cloth Made From Plants
As the Earth got warmer during the Jomon period, grasses and trees such as hemp, paper mulberry and ramie began to sprout and flourish. With those materials people were able to make cloth.
Like hemp handkerchiefs made in modern times, the hemp cloth excavated from Fukui Prefecture’s Torihama Shell Mound was a fine cloth. The method of making this cloth was the same as how rush mats and bamboo screens are made, and it takes a very long time to do so. If you worked every day without a break, it would take roughly a year and a month to make just a short-sleeved coat and shorts.
It was the women’s job to make clothing. If you didn’t take care of your clothes, your mother would definitely tell you off!
Like hemp handkerchiefs made in modern times, the hemp cloth excavated from Fukui Prefecture’s Torihama Shell Mound was a fine cloth. The method of making this cloth was the same as how rush mats and bamboo screens are made, and it takes a very long time to do so. If you worked every day without a break, it would take roughly a year and a month to make just a short-sleeved coat and shorts.
It was the women’s job to make clothing. If you didn’t take care of your clothes, your mother would definitely tell you off!
What about accessories?
The people of the Jomon period made a variety of different accessories, such as earrings, necklaces, bracelets, combs, hairpins and decorations worn at the waist and on the legs. The accessories people wear today were also worn during the Jomon period. They would be made from materials like jade, crystal, amber and other pretty stones, wood, clay, animal bones/tusks/antlers, and shells. Of these accessories, earrings and shell bracelets would mostly be worn by women.he shells used to make the bracelets couldn’t just be any shells, however. The shells you could use were limited to only a few kinds. The accessories men would wear were generally decorations worn at the waist made with jade and deer antlers.
Satohama Shell Mound / Miyagi Prefecture
Provided by: Oku Matsushima Jomon Village History Museum
Chōjagahara Ruins / Niigata Prefecture
Provided by: Itoigawa City Board of Education
Jade
Jade is a hard stone, but because it’s so beautiful, it was the most cherished stone from the Jomon period until the end of the Kofun period (538 AD). There are several areas in Japan where jade is found, however for some reason, the jade excavated from ancient ruins has mostly been from Niigata Prefecture’s Hime River and its branch streams.
From downstream of the Hime River, until the coast of Toyama, there are lots of remains of jade beads. The jade found in the Hime River was carried there all the way from the north, Hokkaido, and even from the very southern Okinawa Prefecture.
From downstream of the Hime River, until the coast of Toyama, there are lots of remains of jade beads. The jade found in the Hime River was carried there all the way from the north, Hokkaido, and even from the very southern Okinawa Prefecture.
Gokurakuji Ruins / Toyama Prefecture
Provided by: Toyama Kamiichi Town Board of Education
Earrings
For ear pieces, they had ones made of stone (known as ketsujou earrings), ones made of clay that were used as ear plugs, and ones made of wood that were coated with something called sumac – a plant that is used as a spice, dye and medicine.
Ketsujou earrings involve a piercing through the earlobe, similar to what we do in modern times. These earrings are historically significant because this piercing technique was spread from China, meaning there was cross-continent interaction even in the Jomon period. Such earrings were originally accessories for women. Later on, there are examples of earrings worn by men, however these are rare, and the ear plugs that came about a bit later gradually became the more popular style.
Ketsujou earrings involve a piercing through the earlobe, similar to what we do in modern times. These earrings are historically significant because this piercing technique was spread from China, meaning there was cross-continent interaction even in the Jomon period. Such earrings were originally accessories for women. Later on, there are examples of earrings worn by men, however these are rare, and the ear plugs that came about a bit later gradually became the more popular style.
Yayoi Period (300 BCE – 300 CE)
What kind of clothes did they wear?
The clothes worn by the Yayoi people were written about in the ‘Wajinden’ (Records of the Wa People – another name for the Yayoi people) as part of China’s historical records in the 3rd Century CE.Men wore headbands called ‘hachimaki’, as well as a wide piece of cloth tied around their waists. These outfits are called ‘ōfukui’, and similar clothing existed in various cultures throughout history, including Ancient Europe, Egypt, India, and South-East Asia.
Women wore clothing called ‘kantōi’, which was a piece of cloth with a hole in the centre for the head to poke through.
Women wore clothing called ‘kantōi’, which was a piece of cloth with a hole in the centre for the head to poke through.
Photo credit: Mukibanda wo Aruku Society
Silk and Hataorigu Looms
At the beginning of the Yayoi period, both the technique for extracting silk fibre from silkworm cocoons and the looms to weave fabric were brought over from the Korean peninsula. Those special looms are called ‘hataorigu’.
It took a long time to make thread from plants, but from a single silkworm cocoon they were able to extract anywhere from 800-1000m of silk fibre. This was gathered to make reams of silken thread which was then woven on the hataorigu looms to make fabric. This meant they were able to produce a lot of fabric for clothing very quickly. What’s more, silk fabric was both lighter and warmer than fabric made from plant fibre, and it shone with a beautiful lustre. The ease with which it could be dyed also meant they enjoyed many stylish, multi-coloured outfits.
It took a long time to make thread from plants, but from a single silkworm cocoon they were able to extract anywhere from 800-1000m of silk fibre. This was gathered to make reams of silken thread which was then woven on the hataorigu looms to make fabric. This meant they were able to produce a lot of fabric for clothing very quickly. What’s more, silk fabric was both lighter and warmer than fabric made from plant fibre, and it shone with a beautiful lustre. The ease with which it could be dyed also meant they enjoyed many stylish, multi-coloured outfits.
What about accessories?
In the Yayoi period, green-coloured stones were first brought over from the Korean peninsula and used to make ‘kudatama’ (tube beads) and ‘garasudama’ (glass beads). Furthermore, they introduced new designs for ‘tategushi’ combs and hairpins made from bones. As rice farming – also introduced by those coming over from the Korean peninsula – spread across the land, accessories continued to change.
Found at the Manai archeological site, Shimane Prefecture
Provided by: Shimane Prefecture Ancient Izumo History Museum
Magatama
‘Magatama’ is short for ‘magatta katachi no tama’, or ‘curve-shaped bead’. The magatama of the Jomon period had no defined design, and came in many different shapes, but towards the end of the Jomon period the famous jellybean-like design appeared, and was passed down through both the Yayoi and Kofun periods.
Magatama were made from both glass and stone, but those made from jade were treasured much more in the Yayoi and Jomon periods. We don’t fully understand the meaning behind the shape of the magatama, but there is one theory that it developed from ‘kibatama’ worn in the Jomon period, which were beads made from animal teeth.
Magatama were made from both glass and stone, but those made from jade were treasured much more in the Yayoi and Jomon periods. We don’t fully understand the meaning behind the shape of the magatama, but there is one theory that it developed from ‘kibatama’ worn in the Jomon period, which were beads made from animal teeth.
Excavated from Forest Burial Site No. 7 in Shimane Prefecture
Provided by: Shimane Prefecture Ancient Izumo History Museum
Kudatama
‘Kudatama’ are long, thin beads that were brought over from the Korean peninsula during the Yayoi period. The first kudatama were made on the Japanese islands in the Tottori and Shimane Prefectures of the San’in region, before being brought north-east to the Hokuriku region.
These regions were rich in green-coloured tuffs and jaspers that were used to make the beads. For some reason, the Yayoi people must have been fond of green and azure-coloured jewellery. The kudatama produced in the San’in and Hokuriku regions were transported all over, such as to Kyushu and to the Kinki and Kanto regions.
These regions were rich in green-coloured tuffs and jaspers that were used to make the beads. For some reason, the Yayoi people must have been fond of green and azure-coloured jewellery. The kudatama produced in the San’in and Hokuriku regions were transported all over, such as to Kyushu and to the Kinki and Kanto regions.
Kushibaru Shell Pile in Okinawa Prefecture
Provided by: State Office of Education in Ie, Okinawa
Shell Bracelets of the Southern Islands
Just like in the Jomon period, there were bracelets made from shellfish shells and boar tusks, but from the Yayoi period onwards, the Yayoi people in Northern Kyushu took a liking to the shells of sea snails, cone snails and limpets that could only be found in the southern islands of Okinawa, and adorned themselves with them. The men wore the shells of ‘gohōra’ sea snails, and women wore those of ‘imo’ cone snails and ‘ōtsutanoha’ limpets. The ‘ōtsutanoha’ shells could also be found in Tanegashima in Kagoshima Prefecture.
It was common to wear ten to twenty of these bracelets on one arm, though some people wore them on both arms. Because the bracelets were heavy, making it difficult to work with them on, it is thought that those who wore them were likely either shaman-like people who worshipped the kami (revered ethereal beings somewhere between deities and spirits), or other similarly important or influential people.
It was common to wear ten to twenty of these bracelets on one arm, though some people wore them on both arms. Because the bracelets were heavy, making it difficult to work with them on, it is thought that those who wore them were likely either shaman-like people who worshipped the kami (revered ethereal beings somewhere between deities and spirits), or other similarly important or influential people.
Kofun Period (300 – 538 CE)
What kind of clothes did they wear?
Toward the end of the 5th century, archaeologists found clay sculptures of humans called haniwa. According to these haniwa, men wore trousers, jackets and shoes. Women wore skirts and jackets. These clothes were very different compared to those from the Yayoi period (300 BCE – 300 CE).
The trousers and shoes were likely worn when riding horses, which were brought over from Korea during this period. It seems that some men wore their hair parted in the middle and tied up next to the ears in what is called a mizura hairstyle, and some wore crowns or hats. Some women wore their hair bunched at the top of their head, with a comb inserted in the hair near the forehead.
The trousers and shoes were likely worn when riding horses, which were brought over from Korea during this period. It seems that some men wore their hair parted in the middle and tied up next to the ears in what is called a mizura hairstyle, and some wore crowns or hats. Some women wore their hair bunched at the top of their head, with a comb inserted in the hair near the forehead.
Kozuka Kofun / Tochigi Prefecture
Provided by: Shimotsuke Province Department of Education
Fine Silk Goods
During the mid-Kofun period, hataorigu looms for making higher quality silk were introduced from the Korean Peninsula. With these new looms, a piece of cloth about 60cm wide could be produced. Although the new hataorigu looms were capable of complex weaving, they required a high level of skill and were not available to everyone. These new looms were used only for weaving silk for influential people, but generally people used the same looms as they did in the Yayoi period. Of course, clothes made from plants were also used.
What about accessories?
Accessories from the Yayoi period continued into the Kofun period. In addition to various beads made of jade and other stones, glass, and clay, arm rings made of shells and bronze, combs made of wood and animal bones, hairpins, and other hair ornaments, there were also new ones from the continent around the 5th century. Crowns and earrings made of gilt bronze, and yellow and orange glass beads were introduced.
Among them, the golden crown was a precious item worn by the royal family and powerful people of the Korean Peninsula.
Among them, the golden crown was a precious item worn by the royal family and powerful people of the Korean Peninsula.
Excavated from Hashie-machi, Isesaki City
Provided by: Gunma Prefectural Museum of History
Excavated from Tsukamawari Burial Mound No. 3 / Gunma Prefecture Owned by: Agency for Cultural Affairs
Provided by: Gunma Prefectural Museum of History
Excavated from Tsukamawari Burial Mound No. 3 / Gunma Prefecture Owned by: Agency for Cultural Affairs
Provided by: Gunma Prefectural Museum of History
What the haniwa tell us about accessories for men and women
From studying the haniwa, we know that both men and women wore beaded necklaces and earrings, as well as bracelets on their wrists. Anklets are only visible on female haniwa. However, it is possible that men also wore anklets underneath their trousers. Men and women wore magatama beads in the same fashion.
Excavated from Takatsuku Tunnel Tomb No. 2 in Chibu Village/Shimane Prefecture Owned by: Chibu Village Board of Education
Provided by: Shimane Museum of Ancient Izumo
Bead Making in Izumo
While magatama were made of jade in the Yayoi period, magatama from the Kofun period made from dark green jasper, orange agate and clear quartz have been unearthed in burial mounds throughout Japan. These magatama were made around Mt. Kasen in Izumo city (now Matsue city in Shimane Prefecture) and transported to other areas.
Ruins of bead making workshops from the late Yayoi period to the Kofun, Nara and Heian periods were found around Mt. Kasen. Breaking away from traditions in the Yayoi period, the bead makers of Izumo made magatama from jasper, agate and quartz, introducing a unique method of bead making that spread throughout Japan.
Ruins of bead making workshops from the late Yayoi period to the Kofun, Nara and Heian periods were found around Mt. Kasen. Breaking away from traditions in the Yayoi period, the bead makers of Izumo made magatama from jasper, agate and quartz, introducing a unique method of bead making that spread throughout Japan.
Text translated in the context of a Translation Work Experience module by students in the School of Politics, Philosophy,
Language and Communication Studies at the University of East Anglia, NR4 7TJ UK.
https://www.uea.ac.uk/ppl; http://www.uea.ac.uk
